Відео

Brilliant to watch Cory, I am sure you will get it going soon.

Really funny to watch 2 guys try to operate a modern vehicle battery system without having a clue how CAN and vehicle controls are working. So normaly the commands to the main battery switches are secured by a E2E protection with checksum or maybe another cyber security protocol. Maybe you are lucky and the little older car hasen´t these protocols. Curious to see more of that.

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why are you soldering directly to the pins instead of using female pin connectors crimped on to jumpers? seems like a fiddly time consuming way to connect temporary wires.

it's lovely butt

Just crack it open and use the raw cells...quit screwing around

Hang on comments 10 MONTHS old...what is this sorcery?!😅

Looking forward to it! 👍

ua-cam.com/video/XHZWGLzT7gg/v-deo.htmlsi=QksSgqk1CH6Ms1Xy

ua-cam.com/video/XHZWGLzT7gg/v-deo.html has it been done already Corey

How are you going to map inverter to throttle position for battery output?

It's not something silly, like being mounted on the wall has tripped a level sensor in the battery?

Just cut it open and take the cells out and build your own wall that can easily be worked on and figured out.

does the battery pack have a sensor to tell it its level and not on its side?

... also check out Battery Man (20/07/24)

A good way to get the job done it will use ev battery to power a house why more money On

Is this a TV show? Lots of talking and dust blowing but clearly half a story.

I install the odd antenna on high voltage substations, usually only up to 6m aluminium poles with similar clamps. We tend to run the cables down the outside and use up cable ties. Main reason being is that as the pole moves (even more so on a boat) the cable rattles on the inside of the pole and can be very annoying. Also happens on modern streetlights too when the wind picks up. Other reason we mount externally on the pole Is ease of access to maintain / repair in future.

at 11:20 those are 450amp fuses, not shunts, and even if they were (current) shunts you say "technically that would stop power flowing that way" - but you're thinking of diodes. It makes me nervous you playing around with this, given it will happily electrocute and/or incinerate you. Good luck... glad it's in a detached building... ;-)

These are great interesting content.

Kopex sounds like something electricians use when they don't want to admit how bad things are.

Great idea. ❤ I live in the desert of Baja Mexico totally off grid. I took the batteries out of 4 SMART cars. Each was 53V nominal. I connected them all in in parallel and hooked them to a 48V Schneider Inverter/charger. Been running 5 buildings and AC for 8 years. Have 28 solar panels. Since I went parallel I do not use BMS.

Every modern car rebuild ive seen when a car is in a crash there is a piro fuse. this also triggers the ecu's. I would guess there is a bit of code that has shut down the battery and the ecu needs to be plugged in and codes wiped. And the battery is not able to talk to the ecu. i dont think its going to be as easy to just replay cam commands that you have captured. You need to understand all the codes and reset the battery. Also even when the 12v battery has gone low it corses massive issues on Ev's. It could also be a grounding issues. Where is the battery grounding to? I am looking forward to updates as this interests me much more than a shitty ipace does. Cheers.

Any updates on this exciting video ?

Great video! Very interesting!

An "explosive diagram" doesn't sound like something you want in relation to an electric car battery.

Great documentary guys. Awesome.

Why you British speak the voice of wo wow woooo why wo woo 😂too much man

With a Tesla, the battery is assigned the vehicle, maybe you have the sane issue where it's looking for a very specific ID which it's not getting from the car, somewhat like a password.

When will there be an update for this?

Not a expert. But what I suspect, is that the battery module is "coded" to the other control systems in the original car. Most electronic modules in cars nowadays, have security codes built into them, and won't talk to other modules until they are "coded". It's really just matching it up with other modules in the car. It's done as part of the car security system. So what I suspect, is the battery is looking for the security system, to tell it that A) everything is ok, and B) a valid key has been detected, before it'll enable it. Until you meet these expectations of the system, it'll probably default to off. And it's also why it won't work, just by hooking it up to another car, because the module codes will be different. What you will probably need to look into, is what controls the security of the original car (probably a body module of some sort), and look into how modules are coded into the car when new parts are installed. Then from there you can work back and figure out what the battery module is looking for, and replicate it with an Arduino or Raspberry Pi or something. That initial burst you see in the CAN BUS, is probably a handshake, looking for other modules on the bus, coded to the same car "network", and when it doesn't find any, it shuts down, because it doesn't get a handshake response that is valid. Also, the fact there are 3 CAN buses, you probably have a primary one, and a backup one, most cars have two networks now, so if one network fails, due to a wiring fault or something, it can continue to talk on the backup, a flag a fault code in the other modules. The third might go to a module for the battery cooling system, or the security system or something. Another thing to consider, is it's probably got codes stored indicating it was in a crash, and these will probably need cleared before it'll operate again. SO best bet is to dig into the wiring diagrams, look for the ODB port, trace what module it goes to, and then figure out if that module controls the security system of the crashed car.

Ive acquired a 90kW Tesla Model3 LR pack that I intend to do the same project with.

Didn't check all comments, however, shouldn't the battery on the wall be covered as Han Solo in carbonite?

It is very easyfor the manufacturer to block hacks like this by ising some cryptographic techniques. It could be a looong journey. I would focus on the parts inside.

you like wind why not go to the country of wind Denmark

POV Cam: fake face... fake face... *toung pops out of corner of mouth* ok nm, its real.

Last year I programmed an ESP32 to talk to my renogy batterys via bluetooth. And send this data to my homeassistant. It tool some time, but it was possible and it was worth it. You will crak the puzzle, and this will be a big step for Dalas Project. Which is a very great github project.

The battery is designed to lay flat and not to be in a vertical position. It might be dangerous in the long run.

Maybe should try get an aftermarket BMS to replace the jaguar one.

ua-cam.com/video/XHZWGLzT7gg/v-deo.htmlsi=ezEsNCNY7pfk8_oI

Waaaaay too much talking

Love the video, but that working car must be broken, the steering wheel is on the wrong side.

An idea… does the battery in the car have a specific serial number that is known by the car system? Are you able to read it so that you can rename the battery on the wall so that the instructions now available on the laptop are communicating with the “same” battery? Or is that just naive nonsense?

pyrofuses

No 1 - the interlock circuit doesn't work by shorting it out, some other manufacturers use a 12v 88hz bidirectional signal through the wires, if that signal isn't seen on both wires then the interlock circuit cuts out the battery contacts. Also the interlock circuit usually runs though all the high voltage orange plugs, the two tiny pins at the top or bottom of the large orange plugs are the interlock circuit pins. No 2 - HV battery packs have internal pyro fuses that blow when the crash signal is sent out by the SRS control unit, this is called tml30c, the crash signal circuit. You really need to find out what the interlock circuit actually is, if it's frequency or PWM ect.... You also need to have a loo myo see if you've got interlock running through the orange HV plugs.

The big question here for me is: how in the world did you procure a 90kwh battery from a broken Jag?? Nice tinkering, love the process!

Great video I look forward to seeing it working. I’m sure the problem will be something simple like a tilt switch 😂

Has it got a tilt switch in it just in case the car is rolled. Perhaps it needs a reset command sent to it?

You can cut the CAN wires and make a transparent gateway. This way you can deduce where the signals are going from/to. I worked for a company that hacked cars for handicapped people. Our device was injecting messages like the car horn, indicator lights and other secondary controls while actively filtering the original messages. CAN messages often have one or multiple counters, each frame increments this count up and often the last count is skipped. 0xC, 0xE, 0x0, 0x1 etc. CAN messages also use CRC as a checksum on each message. You can use CRC RevEng to reverse engineer these crc, sometimes this is impossible and you just need to hardcode a LookUpTable. Hopefully you don't need to got his deep into CAN, and just replaying the messages will be sufficient.

We all want to see you doing the 'can-can' dance in part 2.